In celebration of Sustainable Fashion Week UK, The Material Revolution hosted a special live online panel discussion on creative reuse with designers Jose Hendo (UK), Melissa Ferreira Schwager (Germany/Canada), Sylvia Calvo (Spain) and Jane Ziemons (Australia). 

This conversation brings together the voices and practices of designers who specialise in creative reuse. This unique opportunity enabled these women to share their inspiring stories, how they are inspiring community and what their tools of transformation are.

For more information about Sustainable Fashion Week UK and our guest panel visit:

https://www.sustainablefashionweek.uk

https://sylviacalvobcn.com

https://adhesifclothing.com

https://josehendo.com

https://www.janeziemons.com/melaleuca-rise


This episode is a conversation with author, designer, researcher, educator and visionary Dr. Otto Von Busch. His research explores the emergence of a new hactivist designer role in fashion known as fashion hactivism - a term he coined almost 20 years ago. His seminal texts on the subject questions the current fashion system and encourages alternate practices that make fashion more participatory and more fashion-able.

We spend some time expanding upon fashion hactivism and how it has evolved over the years. His observations and insights sheds light into areas that are often left unsaid yet on the same token brings forth a truth on what really makes fashion vital. We further discuss emotions in relation to the body and how this awareness has the ability to transform role of the fashion designer to support you to grow as a user, as a consumer.

This episode is a conversation with  researcher, environmental engineer and sustainability manager Krisztina Ujhelyi. Originally from Hungary she has spent much of her studies and research in various nordic countries leading her to work with the man made cellulosic fiber research project Ioncell at Aalto University in Finland.   

We discuss her experience in working with this innovative fibre technology and its future possibilities. Her experience at Ioncell was not only limited to material research and prototyping but it involved contributing to the process of policy making.   This helped define two pathways - end of life perspective or the lifecycle.  

 


For more information on our guest: 

Krisztina Ujhelyi has a background in environmental engineering and sustainability management. It was during her work experiences, she encountered the dark side of the fast-fashion industry which led her to become involved in the collection of tremendous amounts of donated clothes in Norway. The impact of this experience made her extremely motivated to use her knowledge of the circular economy and sustainability to the apparel industry. 

It was during her master’s at Aalborg University in Denmark, she took the initiative and became an intern at Aalto University Finland with a man-made cellulosic fiber technology called Ioncell. Over a 1.5 year time period, she immersed herself into material research and explored how this technology can utilise its chemical recycling potential for natural fibers. Her research contributed to the improvement of man-made cellulosic fiber technologies, textile recycling and the circular textile economy.

Currently, she is seeking to learn techniques from the creative side of the fashion industry and is spending time learning sewing techniques and volunteering with Fashion Revolution Hungary.

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The Material Revolution
         http://thematerialrevolution.com

contact us: info@materialrevolution.com
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The podcast is independently developed and produced.  It is through your support that will help us continue to create meaningful and impactful content.
         
         Patreon page to make pledge:  https://www.patreon.com/thematerialrevolution
       
        Music by: Interior Design https://interiordesignmusic.bandcamp.com
 


 This episode is a conversation with Elieen FIsher’s Waste No More Creative Director, Sigi Ahl and Administrative/Project Manager Abigail Erikson. Our discussion focuses on their innovative use of industrial needle felting and how they are utilising this technology to shift the narrative of this machinery into a design tool, resulting in an artisanal textile for the 21st century. We touch upon how Waste No More came into fruition and what they are doing differently.

Our conversation captures how their innovative approach is not only transforming and giving new life to pre-loved Eileen Fisher garments but how it lead them to establish a creative process, alternate design system and circular business model. It is through the reimagination of their own supply chain that they are translating material research into meaningful forms of engagements and collaborations.

For more information on our guests: 

Sigi Ahl

Sigi Ahl is an artist and author based in New York. As a collaborator with EILEEN FISHER since the early days of the company, she helped found EILEEN FISHER’s recycle program in 2009 and went on to establish DesignWork as an extension of that endeavor. Ahl has had solo exhibitions in the US and Germany, as well as written and illustrated several children’s books, one of which was nominated for the German Children’s Literature Award. Her paintings and graphic works are in public collections including f.e. Rhineland-Palatinian Museum, Mainz; Museum for Contemporary Art, Cuxhaven; Marilie Hess-Foundation, Frankfurt; and the City of Frankfurt. Ahl received a Diploma in Visual Communication at Offenbach College of Applied Arts, and a Master’s Degree at the Frankfurt Academy of Fine Arts, Städel.

 Abigail Erickson

Abigail began her career in the fashion industry a decade ago after graduating with a degree in Fashion Design & Business. Her early training at Marie Claire magazine, Theory, & Tibi made her realize the importance of sustainability in fashion and how it is sorely lacking. This observation lead her to the project On Purpose, a corporate social responsibility initiative by Kate Spade & Company.

Her time at Kate Spade was spent establishing a complex supply chain in rural Rwanda. She took her knowledge from there and went on to help scale sustainable fashion start-ups and small businesses. Her experience establishing complex supply chains spans many states & countries.

Erickson joined the EILEEN FISHER WASTE NO MORE team in 2018 as the Administrative & Project Manager. Erickson loves to organize, whether it be people or processes, & she loves systems (creating them or reorganizing them). She believes there is a solution for everything, it just takes a little creative problem solving & negotiating. Being a creative herself she understands that this is always a fluid process, never stagnant. 

Social Media Links: @eileenfisherny @wastenomore @eileenfisherrenew

Website Links:

  www.eileenfisher.com   

www.wastenomore.com  

  www.eileenfisherrenew.com

#TMR

The Material Revolution
       http://thematerialrevolution.com

contact us: info@materialrevolution.com
      IG: https://www.instagram.com/the.material.revolution/

The podcast is independently developed and produced.  It is through your support that will help us continue to create meaningful and impactful content.
       
       Patreon page to make pledge:  https://www.patreon.com/thematerialrevolution
     
      Music by: Interior Design https://interiordesignmusic.bandcamp.com

photos: courtesy of EILEEN FISCHER WASTE NO MORE

 This episode is a conversation Estonian based sustainable designer Reet Aus.   Reet is not only the pioneer of an in industrial upcycling method but she is a researcher, environmentalist, theater and film artist who has  been experimenting with recycling in fashion and costume design since 2005. 

Our conversation highlights the valuable role of upcycling as a design method and how it came to inspire the industrial recycling system she developed. But Reet’s knowledge and experience of upcycling  reaches far beyond the traditional use of this method. She continues to explore and expand upon the concepts of upcycling by creating actionable solutions that are rethinking and changing they way we consider waste in our environment.  


  For more information on our guest: 


Reet Aus is a PhD-qualified fashion designer and environmental activist, a natural rebel who founded REET AUS COLLECTION® and THE UPSHIRT®. She is a pioneer in the field of industrial upcycling for fashion, and has developed the UPMADE® certification, in order to pass on her knowledge to brands and factories.


Reet’s guiding mission in life is to save the fashion industry from itself, and to show that there is a way of ending the throwaway culture that causes so much waste and destruction around the world, reducing the environmental footprint of the industry she loves. Change is possible - Reet’s story shows that - and she wants to be an inspiration to everyone!

Website: https://www.reetaus.com/ 

FB: https://www.facebook.com/reetaus

IG: https://www.instagram.com/reetaus/ 

#TMR

The Material Revolution
       http://thematerialrevolution.com

contact us: info@materialrevolution.com
      IG: https://www.instagram.com/the.material.revolution/

The podcast is independently developed and produced.  It is through your support that will help us continue to create meaningful and impactful content.
  Patreon page to make a pledge:  

https://www.patreon.com/thematerialrevolution
     
     

Music by: Interior Design https://interiordesignmusic.bandcamp.com

 This episode is a conversation with Barcelona based eco designer and circular economy ambassador Sylvia Calvo of Sylvia Calvo BCN. Sylvia is driven by sustainable and circular principles and is motivated by the use residual natural materials, specifically coffee bags which are made from jute fibre. Her research in working with this resource and her ongoing collaboration with artists, craftspeople and local industry has contributed to the transformation and value perception of this material.

Our discussion captures the importance of practitioner knowledge within the circular economy and the necessary ongoing learning that is required in building and scaling a sustainable design practice. We also address

the quantum physics of materials, how care is integral in the creative process and in the methods used in design and how we can use fashion as a vehicle for knowledge.


 
 For more information on our guest: 

Sylvia Calvo, born in Barcelona, studied English Philology at the University of Barcelona and obtained her MBA at Keller Graduate School of Management in Chicago, USA, where she lived for about 15 years. There she worked for the airline industry, but moved back to Barcelona in 2002 to work in her family maritime transportation business. She always wanted to study fashion design, though the circumstances in life made it not possible at that time.


After attending a conference about Eco-Fashion in 2012, the concept she had about the fashion and textile industry changed completely. She started to investigate, to read and to learn about sustainable fashion and the alternatives available to have a more positive social, environmental and economic impact.

In 2015, she created the brand “Sylvia Calvo BCN”, working mainly with original used coffee bags to transform them into garments and complements. Together with five colleagues, she co-founded the Non-profit Association “Moda Sostenible Barcelona” (MSBCN), the first association of this kind in Spain, in order to promote the benefits of sustainable fashion, its creation, production and comsumption, and to bring it closer to consumers.

International Masterclass: with EdenTravel program at different entities in the States and Europe.

Websites:

FB: https://www.facebook.com/sylviacalvobcn/

     IG: https://www.instagram.com/sylviacalvobcn/

     LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/sylviacalvo/?originalSubdomain=es

#TMR

The Material Revolution
     http://thematerialrevolution.com

contact us: info@materialrevolution.com
    IG: https://www.instagram.com/the.material.revolution/

The podcast is independently developed and produced.  It is through your support that will help us continue to create meaningful and impactful content.
     
     Patreon page to make pledge:  https://www.patreon.com/thematerialrevolution
   
    Music by: Interior Design https://interiordesignmusic.bandcamp.com

This episode is a conversation with Berlin based artist and performer, Lisa Simpson and her performative sewing and textile research practice. Her alternative approach to upcycling the discarded and second hand clothing began in Brazil where she established Agente Costura.  A signature feature to Lisa’s work is in how she uses the Singer sewing machine as a musical instrument. 

The nature of her practice is motivated by her love of sewing which is brought to life in her studio, though her materials/tools and in her performances.   Our discussion addresses improvisation and how this informs her ability to adapt and create with the varying materials, musicians/performers and communities she collaborates with.  Our conversation also highlights the Maskerade Brigade, a project she initiated  
 in response to the pandemic.  


This episode is a conversation with Dutch based designer Billie van Katwijk of Studio Billie. Her interdisciplinary practice as a designer is one that has chosen to take an unconventional path and consideration of everyday materials. She explores the everyday and undervalued by guiding it into a new direction, resulting in materials and forms that are conceptually and aesthetically thought provoking.

Our discussion focuses on one of her mater concepts, Ventri. This projects transforms animal food waste, specifically cow stomachs discarded by the animal industry, into an alternative material and leather resource. She developed a proprietary tanning process in order to make this into a functional material. We address issues of the taboo in relation to her discovery and how deeply invested she is in utilising this resource to produce a material that is designed to create awareness, inspire conversation and to educate. Her innovative consideration of materials and resources is meant to highlight the value of under-appreciated in everyday materials.

This episode is a conversation with textile artist and designer Melissa Ferreira Schwager about how she came to establish her brand Adhesif Clothing through her experience as vintage clothing buyer. After 17 years of being located in Vancouver, Canada she recently relocated to Germany. Her unique, patchwork aesthetic is an exploration of upcycling where zero waste methods are combined with sustainable surface design techniques. We talk about how she came to develop her knowledge and expertise in working with certain fibres and materials through the process of upcycling.

Our discussion looks at how she chooses to take a project based approach to her collections and how this translates into a story - capturing the history of the cloth in collaboration with the methods and processes she uses in their transformation.   We also speak very candidly about the creative process, Vancouver, and how methods of creative use/reuse such as upcycling is a valuable skillset and sustainable solution for textile waste in our environment.  `

#TMR - Episode 7 - Modern Barkcloth - Jose Hendo


This episode is a conversation with Ugandan born, London based artist and eco sustainable designer Jose Hendo about her specialised knowledge and experience in working with barkcloth - the world’s oldest textile made by man. We discuss how deeply connected she is to this resource and the impact it has had on her career and personal life not to mention its historical cultural significance to the people of Uganda.

Jose is committed to the education and preservation of this cultural cloth and has been instrumental in developing two initiatives - Bark 2 the Roots (B2BR) and the R3 campaign ( Reduce, Reuse, Recycle). We discuss how her designs are not only a reflection of her cultural influence (Ugandan/British) but how they serve as a reminder to preserve heritage and our environment.

 This episode is a conversation with the artist, textile/fashion designer the Mary Jaeger, based in Brooklyn, NYC.  We begin our discussion on how she was introduced to traditional textile techniques and her expertise and knowledge of shibori. From shibori to tuck techniques, Mary’s integrated approach has enabled her to develop proprietary techniques that has come to inform and shape the signature textiles she is known for.

Our conversation continues as she generously shares her experience on how these techniques are an opportunity to educate, inspire and transform our understanding of the contemporary use of traditional techniques. Her unique, innovative textiles bring forth a consciousness about materials and processes with an emphasis on skilled craftmanship.

For more information on our guest: 

Mary Jaeger is an entrepreneur well known for her innovative textile, fashion and interior designs. She is a master of natural fiber manipulation, repurposed cloth, resist dye techniques, couture sewing, digital technologies and minimal to zero waste. Drawing on years of study and work in Asia, Southeast Asia and Europe, Mary exhibits internationally at museums, galleries and fine stores. Mary won the Smithsonian Honoring the Future Sustainability Award in 2019. Her heirloom collections can be seen at her Brooklyn, NY atelier and online at maryjaeger.com.


Links to Social Media and Website

Website: http://maryjaeger.com

Instagram: www.instagram.com/maryjaeger_ny 

Facebook: www.facebook.com/MARY-JAEGER-DESIGN-IN-TEXTILES- 

#TMR

The Material Revolution
  http://thematerialrevolution.com

contact us: info@materialrevolution.com
 IG: https://www.instagram.com/the.material.revolution/

The podcast is independently developed and produced.  It is through your support that will help us continue to create meaningful and impactful content.
  
  Patreon page to make pledge:  https://www.patreon.com/thematerialrevolution
 
 Music by: Interior Design https://interiordesignmusic.bandcamp.com

 Made in Italy with Soul

This episode is a conversation with the Italian brand Meraky.  Our conversation begins with how they were introduced into working with discarded materials which led them to establish their brand - a brand known for creating high quality fashion accessories  out of unusual materials.  

Part of our discussion looks at how craft has come to inform their approach in how they have come to develop design solutions using waste materials and what roadblocks they have encountered and how this has come to establish a new material development.  We also talk about what motivates their brand philosophically and the steps they have had to take to develop relationships and partnerships to assist in their ongoing research and development.

For more information on our guest: 

Rosaria Marraffino grew up in a small town in the South of Italy, before moving to Bologna to attend university to study astronomy. Since she was a child she always had a passion to “make” things from whatever she sough around her. She met her collaborator Emilia in 2006 while they were both students.  They found themselves renting places that didn’t have much furniture (well, not much “nice” furniture), so they decided to take matters into their own hands. It was during this time they realised there were plenty of treasures made available to them.

Their creative collaborative relationship developing during their restoration, redecoration and repurposing of items they collected during their “rescuing expeditions”. It got to a point when all of the rooms in their apartment became full and they began to sell some of their creations. They also realised were running out of storage space and decided to go smaller. They transitioned into utilising beer caps, lids, recovered leather and textiles, This is when they developed their first brand, Re-find where they participated in every local market they could possibly find. 

In 2017,  they fell in love with coffee packaging - a material that can’t be recycled . They created their first “coffee-themed”collection, Aroma, renamed their brand Meraky and decided to work with local artisans to help us refine their process in order to perfect their new textile structure into hand-made accessories. 

In 2020 they with met another start-up, Casa Grigi, from Portugal. Together they are developing an innovative 100% vegan and natural material, made out of banana peels. Their next collection, Mocha Split, is almost ready to be launched. 

Links to Social Media and Website

Website: www.merakydesign.com

Instagram: www.instagram.com/merakydesign/ 

Facebook: www.facebook.com/MerakyDesign/ 

#TMR

The Material Revolution
 http://thematerialrevolution.com

contact us: info@materialrevolution.com
IG: https://www.instagram.com/the.material.revolution/

The podcast is independently developed and produced.  It is through your support that will help us continue to create meaningful and impactful content.
 
 Patreon page to make pledge:  https://www.patreon.com/thematerialrevolution

Music by: Interior Design https://interiordesignmusic.bandcamp.com